" In the controlled environment of indoor climbing-gyms, it is often possible to set -- side by side -- two identical routes. In turn, simultaneous ascents of these are exhilarating for the competing climbers and spectators alike. At the same time, climbers learn good and safe climbing habits and skills to later transfer to their outdoor climbing.More about race
Depending on how the competition is structured, the following
variations of the basic concept
are most often used
1) Free climbing, but with traditional, "clean" protection.
2) Drytooling, but with sport climbing (bolted) protection. (Wall-tools are used to augment arm reach.)
3) Drytooling with trad-like protection. (This is sometimes informally called the Royal Discipline)
In addition to the protection that the climbers place, it is customary to also add a top-rope or an auto-belay to further eliminate risk.
Lead climber ascends the route, placing protection
along the way, till he/she reaches the anchors at
the top of the route. At this point, the time is
interrupted, the lead climber is lowered back to
the ground, and the stage is set for the second climber.
2) Clock is restarted and the second climber follows the route, cleaning the protection along the way. The time stops when the second climber reaches the top anchors.
(A referee monitors that the protection is placed and clipped correctly; that it would stop a lead fall.)
The trad-like protection features manufactured placements similar to those that one finds along climbing cracks and/or wind and water-created artifacts on natural rock. A typical set for setting us a trad-like route in the gym involves six "crack-slots" for nuts, knotted slings, or camming devices and one placement for threading a sling.
Climbing wall equipped with seven Wedge II belay points (6× wedges, 1× tunnel). Wedge II